Category Archives: Diet

Growth Hormone Use in Meat and Milk; Photo by Vicki Johnson

Growth Hormones in Meat: Myths & Reality

Growth hormones are a divisive topic. A major selling point of organic and “natural” brands are hormone-free meats, which raises concern for some about why any animals are treated with hormones. Combine this branding magic with an often poor understanding of labeling laws and biochemistry and you have the recipe for mass misinformation. In truth, the […]

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Is 40 Grams of Protein Better than 20 Grams?

You Still Don’t Need More Than 20 Grams of Protein per Meal

How much protein do you really need per meal? I’ve been consistent with my answer—approximately 20 grams of high-quality protein—since I first wrote my protein series over a year ago. Nevertheless, it’s a question that I’m likely to keep exploring, if for no other reason than because there are so many other nutritionists out there […]

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How to Do a Vegan or Vegetarian Diet Right as an Athlete

How to Do a Vegan or Vegetarian Diet Right (as an Athlete)

Perhaps it’s the earth consciousness of the prototypical climber, but vegan and vegetarian diets seem to be more popular than normal in climbing circles. There are a number of famous vegetarian and vegan climbers, such as Steph Davis and Alex Honnold, and their public commitment to these animal-friendly diets only increases such diets’ popularity further. […]

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The pros and cons of fructose


Fructose may be the single most well-known—and most despised—food sugar. Since it entered our public spotlight, numerous wellness gurus and associated types have cast aspersions on its safety and linked it to any number of disease states. So much has fructose been derided that even among those who don’t vilify sugar, it is often mistrusted. Given a choice […]

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What's good, better, and best when it comes to sports nutrition?

The Sports Nutrition Pyramid

Occasionally, I come across articles that try to simplify sports nutrition by dispensing with most common “good practices” as unnecessary (like nutrient timing, macro goals, etc.). Usually, their core message is that you should just follow your instincts—eat what you want, when you want, and not worry about the specifics. I get why they’ve adopted this approach—it’s hard and […]

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Why you need more oxygen to burn fat than carbohydrates.

Why You Need More Oxygen to Burn Fat than Carbohydrates (and How This Affects Your Climbing)

I’ve written before about how carbohydrates are more oxygen-efficient than fat, which is a boon for climbing of all types; what I haven’t really addressed is why. Far from being a dry, biochemical fact of interest only to physiology enthusiasts, knowing exactly how carbohydrates derive their advantage can inform everyone about their diets, as well as […]

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Weight maintenance is not really a balancing act.

Understanding the Balance of Your Metabolism

Your metabolism is a complicated subject, and frequently misunderstood. Yet understanding how it works—at least basically—can make you feel tremendously more comfortable with your diet, because your metabolism is at the heart of whether you gain, lose, or maintain weight. Most people think of the relationship between weight loss and weight gain as dichotomous, with only a […]

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