It’s been a good year for fat. In March, the US revised its guidelines on dietary cholesterol to allow unlimited consumption, and just earlier this month the FDA formally ruled that trans fat is not safe to put in food. Now, there’s even news that the Dietary Guidelines for Americans are going to remove the “recommended […]
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A Good Rule of Thumb for Sports Nutrition
There is a ton of sports nutrition advice out there, and it can be difficult to parse. In time, I hope to cover all the major aspects of sports nutrition right here on this blog (as it pertains to climbing, anyway)—but I haven’t yet, and until I do you’re going to be reading or hearing about […]
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Don’t Be a (Carb) Hater
There is a camp amongst athletes that favors a high-fat, low-carbohydrate approach. Their enthusiasm is fueled almost entirely by the work of three researchers (Stephen Phinney, Jeff Volek, and Tim Noakes), who despite over 30 years worth of research have yet to produce any notable studies that demonstrate a low-carb diet to work better than—or […]
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