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Tag Archives: protein

The Times Timing Matters

When does timing matter? Ten years ago, nutrient timing was huge; entire nutrition philosophies arose from the idea that there were “windows” when certain nutrients were more or less important. Today, accumulating evidence suggests this isn’t true—but timing as a concept isn’t quite dead. There are times and situations when timing matters. More specifically, there […]

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How to Do a Vegan or Vegetarian Diet Right (as an Athlete)

Perhaps it’s the earth consciousness of the prototypical climber, but vegan and vegetarian diets seem to be more popular than normal in climbing circles. There are a number of famous vegetarian and vegan climbers, such as Steph Davis and Alex Honnold, and their public commitment to these animal-friendly diets only increases such diets’ popularity further. […]

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Reader Questions #4

Time for more Reader Questions! In this installment, I answer questions regarding: The Role of Carbohydrates During Climbing (Energy Systems) Big Picture Protein Intake Creatine Cessation and Strength/Power Question #1: The Role of Carbohydrates During Climbing (Energy Systems) I recently come across one of your articles about the effects of anxiety on climbing performance and […]

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The Sports Nutrition Pyramid

Occasionally, I come across articles that try to simplify sports nutrition by dispensing with most common “good practices” as unnecessary (like nutrient timing, macro goals, etc.). Usually, their core message is that you should just follow your instincts—eat what you want, when you want, and not worry about the specifics. I get why they’ve adopted this approach—it’s hard and […]

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4 Things That Won’t Help Your Tendons and 4 Things That Might

After I finished writing my glucosamine and chondroitin supplement guide and follow-up executive overview, I realized that what I had written could be disheartening. I don’t want to be solely the bearer of bad news, and I’ve also experienced firsthand how presenting only the negatives can fail to inspire change. Since one of the foremost goals […]

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