I recently came across a column in the American College of Sports Medicine’s news bulletin titled “Active Voice: Protein Supplementation to Enhance Adaptations to Resistance Exercise Training – Not Supported by Scientific Evidence!” In the column, the authors argue that “if a well-balanced diet is consumed, the adaptations of resistance exercise training will not be […]
Read the full article...Hydration Is More Than Just Water
The concept of hydration is surprisingly contentious. While nobody thinks dehydration is a good thing, there are remarkably different opinions on how much water you need to drink to stay hydrated, whether or not electrolytes are necessary, and even on what exactly dehydration itself is. The good news is that I haven’t come across any […]
Read the full article...ClimbSci Episode 2: Carbohydrates
Hey Everyone! Tom and I have released the latest episode of ClimbSci, this time on Carbohydrates. As always, you can find the notes on the ClimbSci website; the episode itself can be watched or listened to below. YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_tDQCxn8Yc SoundCloud https://soundcloud.com/climbsci/02-carbohydrate
Read the full article...An In-Depth Look at Energy Metabolism: Part III
This week we’re finishing up our in-depth look at energy metabolism. In the first segment of this series, we looked closely at the biochemistry of energy metabolism and focused specifically on the equations of the phosphagen system, glycolytic system, and aerobic carbohydrate and fat metabolism. In the second segment, we looked at what does and […]
Read the full article...An In-Depth Look at Energy Metabolism: Part II
A few weeks ago, I wrote an article exploring the biochemistry of energy metabolism. As I explained then, I think a lot of pseudoscience can be countered with a better understanding of basic science—not basic as in easy, but rather as in the fundamental concepts that have allowed the more specialized sciences to become defined. This […]
Read the full article...An In-Depth Look at Energy Metabolism: Part I
One thing I’ve noticed across the years is that the better someone understands the basic science about a topic, the less likely they are to have pseudoscientific beliefs on it. It’s just like anything else, I suppose; your skill at the basic movements found in a sport is a good predictor of your overall ability […]
Read the full article...ClimbSci Episode 1: Protein
Late last night, Tom and I put the finishing touches on everything we needed to have done for an official launch of ClimbSci, our new webcast about all topics climbing and science. In the first episode, we talk about protein, including digestion, metabolism, amino acids (such as BCAAs), signalling, and requirements, and also answer a […]
Read the full article...Caffeine and Climbing
I recently released the Official Supplement Guide for Caffeine, an in-depth look at how caffeine affects performance (its ergogenicity) as well as information on its mechanisms, side effects, and dosage. After I release these guides, however, I like to also release a more reader-friendly summary version where I highlight the information most climbers will find […]
Read the full article...Caffeine Supplement Guide
Facts at a Glance Summary Caffeine improves mood and energy, increases focus and accuracy, and decreases pain and rates of perceived exertion. Non-users stand to gain the most when using it as an acute ergogenic aid for short-term events, such as competitions or projects, but even habitual users can experience benefits such as improved training […]
Read the full article...Growth Hormones in Meat: Myths & Reality
Growth hormones are a divisive topic. A major selling point of organic and “natural” brands are hormone-free meats, which raises concern for some about why any animals are treated with hormones. Combine this branding magic with an often poor understanding of labeling laws and biochemistry and you have the recipe for mass misinformation. In truth, the […]
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